Snakes may not be everyone’s first thought when considering a pet, but for those who take the plunge, they quickly discover that these fascinating creatures make quiet, low-maintenance, and surprisingly rewarding companions. With their graceful movements, calm demeanor, and intriguing biology, snakes offer a unique pet-owning experience unlike any other. However, owning a snake is not as simple as placing it in a tank and feeding it a mouse once in a while. Like any pet, snakes require specific care, attention, and a proper environment to thrive. This guide is designed to help first-time snake owners understand the essentials of snake care and build a solid foundation for a healthy and happy reptilian companion.
Choosing the Right Snake for Beginners
Not all snakes are ideal for first-time owners. Some species have challenging care requirements or unpredictable temperaments. As a beginner, it’s best to start with a species known for being hardy, docile, and easy to handle.
Best beginner-friendly snakes include:
Corn Snake: Very docile, adaptable, and comes in a wide range of beautiful color morphs.
Ball Python: Calm and slow-moving, but may be picky eaters. Known for curling into a tight ball when nervous.
California Kingsnake: Active and curious, with a bold striped or banded pattern. Easy to care for and usually great eaters.
Garter Snake: Native to many parts of North America and known for their mild nature and smaller size.
Rosy Boa: Small, gentle, and slow-moving. Good for owners with limited space.
When choosing a snake, consider its adult size, temperament, and care requirements. Avoid wild-caught snakes whenever possible, as they may carry parasites and are less accustomed to handling.
Setting Up the Enclosure
Providing a safe, escape-proof, and enriching environment is critical to your snake’s well-being. The enclosure should mimic their natural habitat as closely as possible.
- Size: A good rule of thumb is that the enclosure should be at least as long as the snake. Hatchlings can start in smaller tanks, but adults will need larger setups.
- Type: Glass aquariums with screen lids, plastic reptile tubs, and front-opening vivariums all work well, depending on the species and your budget.
- Security: Snakes are escape artists. Ensure all lids and doors are secure and there are no gaps.
Include the following in your setup:
- Hides (one on the warm side and one on the cool side)
- A water bowl large enough for soaking
- Branches, rocks, or plants for enrichment (species-specific)
Heating, Lighting, and Humidity
As ectothermic (cold-blooded) animals, snakes depend on their environment to regulate body temperature. A thermal gradient is essential, with a warm side and a cooler side of the enclosure.
-
Heating options: Under-tank heaters (UTHs), ceramic heat emitters, or heat lamps. Use a thermostat to prevent overheating.
-
Temperatures: Most beginner snakes do well with a warm side of 85–90°F and a cool side around 75°F.
-
Lighting: Most snakes do not require UVB lighting, but a regular day/night cycle is important.
-
Humidity: Species like ball pythons need higher humidity (50–70%), while corn snakes prefer moderate levels (40–60%). Use a hygrometer to monitor levels.
Misting the enclosure, using substrate that retains moisture, or adding a humid hide can help regulate humidity.
Substrate and Enclosure Decor
Substrate is the bedding on the bottom of the enclosure. Choose one that suits your snake’s needs and is easy to clean.
Safe substrate options include:
-
Aspen shavings (great for burrowing species)
-
Newspaper or paper towels (cheap and easy to clean)
-
Reptile carpet (reusable but needs regular washing)
Avoid cedar or pine, as the oils can be toxic to reptiles.
Add décor that provides hiding spots and enrichment:
-
Logs, rocks, artificial plants, and branches
-
At least two hides (one in the warm area and one in the cool area)
-
Climbing options for semi-arboreal species
Clean the enclosure regularly: spot clean waste daily, replace water, and do a full substrate change monthly or as needed.
Feeding Your Snake
Feeding your snake correctly is essential to its health. Most commonly kept pet snakes eat rodents such as mice or rats.
-
Type of prey: Always use appropriately sized prey (no wider than the snake’s widest body part).
-
Feeding frequency:
-
Hatchlings: every 5–7 days
-
Juveniles: every 7–10 days
-
Adults: every 10–14 days
-
-
Frozen-thawed vs. live: Frozen-thawed is safer and more humane. Warm prey to body temperature before offering.
-
Feeding method: Use tongs to offer prey. Avoid handling your snake 24–48 hours after feeding.
Some snakes are shy feeders and may prefer privacy. If your snake refuses food, check temperature and humidity levels, and make sure it’s not shedding.
Handling and Socialization
Snakes do not crave social interaction like dogs or cats, but most can become accustomed to gentle handling.
-
Let them settle: Wait a week or so before handling a new snake.
-
Be gentle: Support the snake’s body, avoid sudden movements, and don’t grab from above.
-
Frequency: Handle a few times a week to maintain tameness. Over-handling can stress them.
-
Signs of stress: Hissing, rapid tongue flicking, tightly coiling, or striking indicate a stressed snake.
Never handle a snake during or just before a shed, after feeding, or when it’s clearly not in the mood.
Health and Veterinary Care
Healthy snakes are active (for their species), have clear eyes, shed in one piece, and eat regularly. Here are common issues to watch for:
-
Mites: Tiny black or red parasites visible around the eyes or in water bowls.
-
Respiratory infections: Wheezing, mouth gaping, or mucus.
-
Scale rot: Blistering or discoloration of the belly scales.
-
Shedding problems: Retained eye caps or incomplete sheds.
Preventative care tips:
-
Keep the enclosure clean and well-regulated.
-
Quarantine new snakes for at least 30 days before introducing them to a shared space.
-
Find a reptile-experienced veterinarian in your area.
Long-Term Commitment
Snakes live longer than many people realize. Depending on the species:
-
Corn snakes: 15–20 years
-
Ball pythons: 20–30 years
-
Kingsnakes: 15–25 years
Be prepared for a long-term commitment.
Daily tasks:
-
Spot clean waste
-
Check temperature and humidity
-
Refill water
Weekly tasks:
-
Clean water bowl
-
Check for signs of illness
-
Feed (depending on schedule)
Monthly or as needed:
-
Full enclosure cleaning
-
Shedding support
If you go on vacation, make sure a trusted person understands how to care for your snake or use a reputable reptile boarding service.
Fun Facts About Snakes
- Snakes smell with their tongues: Instead of noses, snakes use their forked tongues to collect scent particles and analyze them using a special organ in the roof of their mouths called the Jacobson’s organ
- Some snakes give live birth: While many snakes lay eggs, species like boas and garter snakes give birth to live young.
- Snakes can go weeks without eating: Depending on the species and age, snakes can comfortably fast for extended periods—sometimes even months—especially after a large meal.
- They have hundreds of vertebrae: A snake’s spine is made up of hundreds of tiny vertebrae, giving them remarkable flexibility and strength.
- Snakes never stop growing: Like many reptiles, snakes grow throughout their lives, though growth slows significantly with age. Shedding helps accommodate their increasing size.
Snakes are captivating pets that offer an entirely different kind of companionship. With the right care, a thoughtfully arranged enclosure, and a little patience, your snake can thrive in your home for decades. While they may not greet you at the door or play fetch, snakes offer their own quiet kind of charm, and for the right owner, they can be the perfect cold-blooded companion.
If you’re new to the world of snakes, start simple, do your research, and don’t be afraid to ask for advice from seasoned herpetology communities or exotic vets. With time, you’ll build a relationship based on trust, respect, and curiosity—exactly what makes snake ownership so rewarding.